Every driver knows, or at least he should know, that all external lighting points in the car must be operational. Nevertheless, there are many vehicles on the roads, in which one does not burn, two, and even three light bulbs. It is, unfortunately, evidence of carelessness, as generally fixing such a defect does not present any special problem. W 9 cases on 10 it is enough to spend a few minutes on the repair. Another thing, that when we get this one, tenth, more work will have to be put in.
The most common cause of the lack of lights is, of course, the burnout of the bulb. However, this is not a rule, so before we reach for the screwdriver, to start unscrewing the lamp, it is worth considering for a moment. Perhaps it will turn out to be unnecessary at all.
And so, there is no point in replacing light bulbs if two lamps of the same type do not work, and so, np. two fog lights, brake lights, turn signals. It rarely happens, that two or even three light bulbs would burn out at the same time. Also, let's not start with the replacement of light bulbs, when both headlamps or high beam headlamps go out. And in this case, the fault is probably beyond the lamps, though you will have to look for it elsewhere than then, when the turn signals stop working, brake or position lights. This is because all the turn signal lamps are connected to one fuse, each of the headlamps is assigned to a separate one. Thus, a separate circuit protects the left dipped beam circuit, a separate one for the right. The same also applies to the high beam. Hence just, Blown fuses are extremely rare when both low and high beam headlamps are off. Also, they are generally not destroyed simultaneously. Failure should rather be expected in this part of the electrical installation, in which it has not yet been divided into one and the other low or high beam headlamp. It is even less likely that both low beam and high beam bulbs will suddenly burn out. This time, however, the cause lies elsewhere in the installation - before it separates into the low and high beam circuit.
Unfortunately, there are many possibilities of failure in both cases, the more that a lot depends on whether the main headlamp circuits are equipped with relays or not. It can be one of the numerous connector connections, broken switch or switch or broken wire. Therefore, without a thorough knowledge of the vehicle's electrical system (or its schematic) and even the simplest sampler in the form of a light bulb with two wires, there is little we can do. Practically, you can only check if the relays are working (as long as they are in our car). Changing the position of the high beam and dipped beam switch lever should be accompanied by a clang coming from the inside of the relays. It is intended to be heard from both, because when the contacts disconnect, including dipped beam, combine in the second – from road and vice versa If we even find, that the relay is not working, it does not do much. Basically, without a diagram and an indicator light, we can only move the wires that go to the relays, to be sure, if they have a good connection.
Then there are much greater chances of a quick fix of a failure, when the turn signals have stopped working, the stop lamps or one or the other circuits of the position lamps. This is where the fuse is usually to blame. If it didn't even burn out, maybe it's just that the surfaces of its contact with the plates of the socket are dirty and are an obstacle in the path of the current. It is therefore necessary to take a look not only, what the fuse wire looks like, but also operate the entire fuse. If, despite these treatments, the lights do not start working, and we have the wiring diagram, let's check what other receivers are still protected by a given fuse. When it turns out, that they don't work either, it will be known, that no electricity is reaching the fuse box at all. If, on the other hand, they function, the failure occurs in the circuit of the lights themselves. In both cases, a tester will again be required to locate the malfunction, but even if we do not have it, it is worth checking if the wire connected to the fuse box has become disconnected. It is quite common, especially in the PF 126p - after several years of operation, the connectors crimped on the wires simply break.
When these simplest methods do not work, you have to, unfortunately, refer to the installation diagram and the control lamp. First, let's fix, which conductors the current should flow through, what color are they and where are the places, to which you can easily connect the probe. There is no point in cutting the insulation, since we can touch the connector with the control lamp wire. Because examining the entire current path from the battery or generator to the lamp in this way is quite tedious and, as a rule, completely unnecessary, worth analyzing in advance, where the most likely site of damage is. This will narrow down the area of our search perfectly. For example, when only the turn signals do not work and the fuel gauge connected to the same fuse, you miss the point of checking the part of the circuit between the battery and the fuse box. It is known in advance, that this part of the installation is operational.
This is not the case, when the dipped beam or main beam shines much weaker. It is a sign, that somewhere in the path of the current there is a large voltage drop. Because it can happen at any of the connections or switches, it is appropriate to review all of them, from the battery (alternator) all the way to the headlight. Here, however, a voltmeter should be used instead of a control. The change in brightness of the lamp may be difficult to see. When we do not have a voltmeter, in fact, all joints have to be cleaned, though generally it, which offered the greatest resistance to the current can be recognized. Due to the release of large amounts of heat in this place, the insulation of the cables is gray and hardened. In this way, however, we will not detect other places with smaller voltage drops, which, when added together, can also cause worse illumination, e.g.. headlights.
But let's get back to the situation, when the bulbs are not burning at all, and more specifically to a specific case, when no light bulb is working in one lamp. And this time it is almost certain, that all bulbs are working, the cause of the failure lies in the lack of connection of the lamp to the ground. It is therefore necessary to check, or ground wire, that is, from the bulb holder to the body, stuck in its socket next to the lamp and that its tip is not contaminated. If we don't find anything like that, we need to establish yet # is there really any contact between it and the bodywork. The easiest way to do this is to use a section of the conduit, with which we touch the frame on one side, on the other hand, to any uninsulated and unpainted element of the vehicle.
Finally, there is still the most common and prosaic case, Meaning, when one light bulb is not working. Naturally, we start then by dismantling it and installing a new one.
Before we throw away the old one, however, it's worth checking out, whether the fiber inside the glass bulb is actually broken. if so, Of course, we throw the bulb away, when we do not find any damage, let's not rush it.
It happens, that the newly founded one does not want to smoke. The reason for this is usually the lack of connection between the bulb and the socket.Firstly, you need to clean the fragment of the socket surrounding the bulb base with a wad of sandpaper. Especially when the lampshade is leaky due to the action of moisture and salt, the place tends to be covered with a non-conductive coating..
Secondly, we bend the plate, on which the base of the bulb rests. Only when these treatments do not help, one has to reach for the sampler and start the tedious search for the cause, why does the electricity not flow to the lamp.
Every driver knows, or at least he should know, that all external lighting points in the car must be operational. Nevertheless, there are many vehicles on the roads, in which one does not burn, two, and even three light bulbs. It is, unfortunately, evidence of carelessness, as generally fixing such a defect does not present any special problem. W 9 cases on 10 it is enough to spend a few minutes on the repair. Another thing, that when we get this one, tenth, more work will have to be put in.
The most common cause of the lack of lights is indeed the burnout of the bulb. However, this is not a rule, so before we reach for the screwdriver, to start unscrewing the lamp, it's worth considering for a moment. Perhaps it will turn out to be unnecessary at all.
And so, there is no point in replacing light bulbs if two lamps of the same type do not work, and so, np. two fog lights, brake lights, turn signals, or in the case of position lamps, left front and right rear or right front and left rear, as they are connected diagonally. It rarely happens, that two or even three light bulbs would burn out at the same time. Also, let's not start with the replacement of light bulbs, when both headlamps or high beam headlamps go out. And in this case, the fault is probably beyond the lamps, though you will have to look for it elsewhere than then, when the turn signals stop working, brake or position lights. This is because all the turn signal lamps are connected to one fuse, each of the headlamps is assigned to a separate one. Thus, a separate circuit protects the left dipped beam circuit, a separate one for the right. The same also applies to the high beam. Hence just, Blown fuses are extremely rare when both low and high beam headlamps are off. Also, they are generally not destroyed simultaneously. Failure should rather be expected in this part of the electrical installation, in which it has not yet been divided into one and the other low beam headlamp or